The History of the Lapel: How a Simple Fold Became a Style Icon

Ever wonder why your suit jacket has those sleek, folded flaps called lapels? They’re one of the most defining features of a suit — but they didn’t just appear out of nowhere.
The story of the lapel is a fascinating journey through history, fashion, and a little bit of old-school practicality.

Let’s rewind a bit. 

It All Started with a Coat...

Back in the 18th and early 19th centuries, men's outerwear looked a lot different than it does today. Long frock coats and riding jackets were the norm, featuring high collars that could be buttoned up tight against the cold.

But when the weather warmed up or a more relaxed look was needed, men would unfasten the top buttons of their coats and fold back the edges — revealing the contrasting interior lining.
Voilà: the earliest form of the lapel was born.

At first, this was purely functional. Nobody thought of it as a "style move." But as time went on, this casual folding became a deliberate design feature, adding a touch of flair and versatility to men's clothing.

Lapels Find Their Place

By the mid-19th century, tailoring evolved rapidly. Coats became shorter, styles became sharper, and the lapel graduated from an accidental fold to an intentional, sewn-in part of the jacket.

Around this time, different lapel styles started to emerge:

• Notch Lapel: The most classic style, with a small "notch" where the lapel meets the collar.

• Peak Lapel: A more dramatic, formal choice, with pointed edges aiming upward toward the shoulders.

• Shawl Lapel: Smooth and rounded, often seen on tuxedos and dinner jackets for a softer, elegant look.

Each style had its own place — and still does — depending on the formality and purpose of the suit.

20th Century: Lapels Get Loud (and Then Chill Out Again)

The early 1900s kept lapels pretty narrow and neat. But by the 1930s and 1940s, Hollywood glamor and the influence of tailoring legends like Savile Row brought bolder, wider lapels into the spotlight.

Think: big peak lapels, double-breasted jackets, and serious swagger.

Then came the 1960s and '70s — and lapels went even wider. (Maybe too wide — some lapels back then could double as airplane wings.)
But as with all trends, what goes up must come down. By the 1980s and ’90s, the fashion world pivoted back toward slimmer, understated lapels, favoring a sleeker, more minimalistic silhouette.

Today: A Perfect Balance

Today’s lapels strike a happy balance between classic tradition and personal style. Modern suiting often features moderate-width lapels, but the beauty of custom tailoring (like what we do here at TruTailor!) is that your lapel can be designed to suit your personality, proportions, and preferences.

Want a strong, confident peak lapel? A timeless, versatile notch lapel? Or a clean, elegant shawl lapel for your next black-tie event?
The choice is yours — and that’s the true evolution of the lapel: from a functional fold to a powerful tool of self-expression.

Final Thought

Next time you button up your jacket and adjust your lapels, know that you’re wearing a piece of history — one that has evolved from the chilly streets of 18th-century Europe to the red carpets and boardrooms of today.

At TruTailor, we honor that tradition by crafting suits that bring timeless style into your everyday life — one lapel at a time.

Ready to design your own piece of history? Let’s get started!