Pattern Power: How to Choose the Right Suit Pattern or Texture for Any Occasion

When it comes to custom suits, we often think about fit, fabric, and color—but what about pattern and texture? These elements are the subtle power moves of menswear, offering depth, personality, and even versatility to your wardrobe. At TruTailor Custom Suits, we believe choosing the right pattern or texture is just as important as the perfect cut.

Here’s your guide to navigating pinstripes, plaids, houndstooth, and textures—as well as lesser-known patterns like birdseye, nailhead, and glen check—and knowing exactly when and why to wear them.

Pinstripes: The Executive Edge

What it is: Pinstripes are narrow vertical lines, often white or light-colored, running down a darker background. They can be chalk stripes (thicker and fuzzier) or true pinstripes (very thin and clean).

Why it works: Pinstripes elongate your silhouette, making you appear taller and slimmer. This classic pattern exudes authority, professionalism, and sophistication.

When to wear it: Perfect for business settings, high-stakes meetings, and formal conferences. Pinstripes are your go-to when you want to project confidence and command.

Examples:

• A navy pinstripe suit with a crisp white shirt and solid burgundy tie—ideal for closing a deal or attending a boardroom presentation.

• A charcoal chalk-stripe double-breasted suit with black oxfords and a silver tie—a power look for the modern CEO or attorney.

Plaid: Bold, Stylish, and Statement-Making

What it is: Plaid suits feature crisscrossing horizontal and vertical lines in a variety of thicknesses and shades. There are many variations, including windowpane, glen plaid, tartan, and Prince of Wales.

Why it works: Plaid is expressive and can range from subtle to bold. It allows you to show your personality while keeping things polished.

When to wear it: Great for weddings, social events, and creative workspaces. It brings flair without sacrificing formality.

Examples:

• A gray windowpane plaid suit with a pale blue shirt and brown brogues—a confident look for a groom or event guest.

• A brown Prince of Wales plaid suit with a tan turtleneck—perfect for autumn outings and stylish casual Fridays.

• A forest green tartan blazer with dark denim and loafers—great for a night out or holiday gathering.

Houndstooth: Vintage Flair with Modern Edge

What it is: Houndstooth is a broken check pattern that resembles the jagged shape of a dog’s tooth. Typically black and white, but can come in many color combinations.

Why it works: Houndstooth adds character without being overwhelming. It’s retro and refined, with a British twist.

When to wear it: Ideal for fall and winter, and works best in blazers, sport coats, or casual suits. Great for business casual environments.

Examples:

• A navy and white houndstooth blazer with khakis and loafers—perfect for brunch or a gallery visit.

• A black and gray wool houndstooth suit with a black shirt and tie—sleek, confident, and sophisticated for a dinner party or cocktail hour.

Birdseye and Nailhead: The Subtle Sophisticates

What they are: Both are small, tight patterns that appear solid from a distance but reveal subtle texture up close. Birdseye resembles tiny dots, while nailhead has a grid-like appearance.

Why they work: These patterns add visual interest without being distracting. They’re ideal for professionals who want understated elegance.

When to wear them: Excellent for office wear and formal events where you want a break from solids but still need to keep it professional.

Examples:

• A navy birdseye suit with a white shirt and dark tie—subtle texture makes this a staple for daily wear.

• A charcoal nailhead suit with a powder blue shirt—clean, classy, and quietly stylish for client meetings or business lunches.

Glen Check (Prince of Wales): Royal Heritage, Modern Appeal

What it is: A large-scale plaid pattern that often features a subtle overcheck in a contrasting color. It was popularized by the Duke of Windsor.

Why it works: It’s formal enough for business but has enough flair for fashion-forward settings.

When to wear it: Weddings, upscale dinners, or stylish work environments.

Examples:

• A light gray Glen check suit with a soft pink shirt—sophisticated, European-inspired look for summer.

• A navy Glen check with a red windowpane overcheck—adds personality and elegance to your winter wardrobe.

Textures: Silent Luxury

What it is: Texture refers to the weave and feel of the fabric, such as tweed, flannel, sharkskin, linen, or seersucker. Even solid colors in these weaves carry dimension and seasonality.

Why it works: Textured fabrics bring richness and depth to your suit, adjusting your look to the season and elevating even simple outfits.

When to wear it: Flannel and tweed for fall/winter, linen and seersucker for spring/summer.

Examples:

• A beige linen suit with a floral shirt and loafers—breezy, sharp, and perfect for beach weddings.

• A gray flannel suit with a turtleneck and Chelsea boots—a cozy winter ensemble that blends comfort and sophistication.

How to Choose the Right Pattern or Texture for You

1. Consider Your Build: Vertical patterns like pinstripes slim and elongate. Bold plaids can broaden your frame. Textures add bulk—great for slender frames or cooler weather.

2. Think About the Occasion: Reserve classic patterns for business and mix in bold designs for social or seasonal events.

3. Reflect Your Personality: Conservative? Go with birdseye or nailhead. Adventurous? Embrace tartan or bold glen checks.

4. Balance the Outfit: If your suit has a bold pattern, keep the shirt and tie subdued. For a simple suit, a patterned tie or shirt can add spice.

Final Thought: Pattern Is Personality

Your suit should reflect you. Patterns and textures are the brushstrokes of personal style in the gallery of menswear. At TruTailor Custom Suits, we’ll help you find the right balance of tradition and individuality so you can look and feel your best—for every occasion and every season.

So the next time you’re thinking about a new custom suit, don’t just think about the fit. Think about the flair.

Let’s find your signature look, one pattern at a time!